The crustacean is the most coveted delicacy this season

A farmer at Yangcheng Lake in Jiangsu Province rejoices at a large crab he has caught.

AS the autumn winds surge, crabs get itchy feet to crawl, chrysanthemum turns yellow and crab yolk becomes rich. These are the most popular poetic lines about the most sought-after delicacy in this part of the country.

The crustaceans become mature day by day with autumn.They get itchy feet to crawl to the mouth of Yangtze where fresh and salty water meet, to answer the call of nature - meet their partners and parent the next generations.

It is a spectacular scene: millions of crabs crawl to the Yangtze and swim eastward.

Above: Every autumn, chefs from Central Hotel go to the lake and select crabs.

Workers at a local restaurant bind the crabs before placing them in bamboo steamers.

Observing this law, men cast nets on the way, so that the creatures become a delicacy on the dining table.

Crab-eating traditions began thousands of years ago.

People found a strange and terrible kind of "pests with crusts" in the fields eating grains. They had sharp chelae and legs that could injure the farmers.

Some were bitten by the pests and people closed their doors before sunset for fear of attack.

However, a bold farmer could not bear them any longer and sprayed a basin of boiling water on the pests.

Suddenly, the pests stopped being pests and the green crust turned to gold.

Some brave farmers took them back home and stewed them. A strong aroma came out of the pests, which enticed one man to try one after peeling the crust away.

He found it was the most delicious food he had ever eaten in his entire life.

The news spread quickly, and people loved the taste of the pests and caught them with a view to eating them. Since then, the harmful pests have become a delicacy.

You may dismiss this story as jive, but the crab really has become part of Chinese culture.

In the Chinese language, the phrase "The first one to eat crab" refers to an insightful person who dares to take risks and try something new.

The ancient Chinese paid particular attention to methods of tasting crabs.

Commonly, they prepared eight kinds of tools, such as tiny hammers, axes and tweezers.

It is said that the supreme state for eating crabs is that all the crust can be kept almost intact after the meat is taken out.

In ancient China it was regarded as something of high taste to enjoy the delicacy of crabs, watch the chrysanthemums and compose poems.

Crabs have different grades. Those living in the lake are the best - especially in Yangcheng Lake in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province. The following five grades are those in the river, creek, brook, gully and sea.

The hairy crabs in the Yangcheng Lake are the most renowned.

The special ecological environment around the lake is the reason why it grows good crabs.

The lake was kept away from pollution, which contains various kinds of nutritious elements.

The water is clear so that the sunlight can go through, helping the growth of the crabs, and the dense water plants nourish the crabs and their climbing steps.

Many vendors claim that their crabs came from the Yangcheng Lake, but the genuine hairy crabs in this lake are of a small amount every year.

Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs have features in common, that is, a shining green crust, a jade-white belly, golden legs with long hard hair, and spitting foam constantly. Each of them is about 200 grams in weight.

Female crabs have a round belly, while for male ones, it is pointed. The ninth month in the Lunar Calendar is the right time to try female crabs with much ovaries and roe, and the next month is better for male ones.

Zhao Fuming is a farmer who has 10 years of experience of rearing crabs. He has to spend five months on a boat in the centre of the lake every year.

"The annual output of crabs from the Yangcheng Lake is hundreds of tons," he said. "Most are sold to Shanghai and Guangzhou. In recent years, more have been exported to foreign countries."

To most Westerners, eating crab is difficult, for the crusts are hard and they do not always know where to begin.

It is better to try crabs when they are hot, and two to four crabs are a proper amount for one person.

Since crabs are "cold" food in Chinese medicine, they should be steamed with ginger and spring onion and eaten along with yellow rice wine, which are "warm" ones.

You must not drink tea, cold water or eat persimmons after tasting crabs, or your stomach will be hurt.

Commonly, crabs are the last dish of a dinner, because they are so delicious that other food would not have any taste if you tried crabs first.

Good-quality crabs will not make your hands stink, but will leave the exquisite fragrance of the meat.

The Central Hotel (Wang Bao He) is the most famous place for a crab feast in the city.

It has a breeding area in Yangcheng Lake, and each crab it uses is strictly chosen by experienced farmers and staff.

Crabs can be made into varied dishes, not only steamed ones. The chefs take out the crab meat and roe and cook them with other ingredients, which are easier ways to taste the delicacy.

You can also take a tour direct to Yangcheng Lake, not only for genuine hairy crabs but also for nice scenery in the area.

Central Hotel (Wang Bao He)

Tel: 5396-5000

Add: 555 Jiujiang Lu